Who wants a straight pipe?

[Max Psi GSR]

Greg, how do you plan to solve the SECOND bung for the SECOND O2 sensor? If you do nothing about it, wont that kick a code, and make your run in limp/rich mode?

Tony

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96 GSR, JRSC@6psi, Monthly Autocrosser, Weekly Drag Racer, and ALWAYS daily driven! [email protected] in the 1/8th, shootin for 8.5 with some new "goodies"!

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[AvanishV]

Holden,

Let me know how loud it gets with the straight pipe. If it's not too loud, maybe I'll consider one.

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1995 Integra GSR
JR Supercharger (6 psi), HO fuel pump, RS*R Header, Apexi WS cat-back exhaust, Iceman Intake, Neuspeed Front Tower Bar, Type-R Rear Swaybar, Short Shifter, ST 1.3" drop springs

[Holden]

I will unplug the secondary O2 sensor from its' wiring harness and store it along with the cat.

If I get a CE light (some 96 GSR owners don't get them with a straight pipe - some early OBD II ECU's let you get away with more tampering than later OBD II ECU's), I'll go with the trick JRCivic shared with us:

Run a 1/2 watt 10K ohm resistor from a tap on the primary O2 sensor wire to the secondary O2 sensor wire. ECU sees signal from primary O2 sensor modified by the resistor as the secondary O2 signal and is happy.

If that doesn't work, it'll be electrical tape on the CE light time!

Greg

[JRSCGSR]

Heh Holden, I'd be interested if the price is right. Let me know you like it first though. Thanks.

Jon

[Holden]

I'm going tomorrow to a local muffler shop to arrange for them to build and install a 2.5" ID straight pipe with one O2 bung on the top front for the primary O2 sensor and one O2 bung on the lower rear (plugged with a bolt) for easy Wideband O2 sensor hookup when on a dyno.

It will be plain steel. Non-resonated. Nothing fancy.

But.... it will be a perfect fit for any 94-00 GSR, since I won't be satisfied until it fits my car properly.

Once they get the first one done, they could knock off a bunch of them for cheap.

Would anyone be interested in one?
What's your price limit?

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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @6psi, AEM CAI/RSR 4-2-1/Greddy PE, Cartech 20005/Walbro GSS-342, KYB AGX/H&R OE Sport/ST 19mm Rear Swaybar
Best 1/4 ==> 13.937 @ 101.41mph
My JRSC Install Site

[SCB18B1]

Sorry to hear about your problems. I hate having to deal with boneheads like that.
By the way, I've thought about taking the cat out of my 98 non vtec JRSC teg for quite some time now, but have been concerned with not having enough back pressure and slowing the car down. Do you see that as a problem? I figure as far as the second O2 sensor goes, if the 10K ohm doesn't work out, it's just a matter of finding the correct resistance to lower the voltage to the second O2 sensor to trick the ecu since theoretically, the 2nd O2 sensor voltage is always going to be proportionally less than the voltage of the primary O2 sensor. Have you ever thought about using an OBD1 ecu instead? If it does work, I'm assuming it could potentially give more power since it has less strict parameters. Any ideas on the complexity of the swap other than perhaps switching a few wires around? I've thought about that too.
By the way, great website. I read through it all before purchasing my JRSC in March. I had the same problem with my FPR. I took it apart and found a loose piece of the gasket belonging to the FPR that prevented the nipple that blocks part of the fuel line that causes the fuel pressure to increase from closing. The FPR consist of two main pieces. The diaphram side and the fuel line side. I think the piece came from one of the holes they punched out on the gasket to put the allen screws through to assemble diaphram side to the fuel side of the FPR.

[Holden]

Well, this will have to wait for me to find a new shop.

I stopped in at lunch to talk with their "exhaust expert" and the fucker wouldn't even discuss anything until he had the car on a lift.

Apparently I am unqualified to describe a straight pipe.

Assholes. I will find a new shop that respects my intelligence and time.

Greg